Dr. N.
Il new Patek Philippe Calatrava was presented, like many other innovations in Swiss haute horlogerie, at the fair "Watches and Wonders 2021“, Which replaced the previous Baselworld after many years of uncertainty about the future of the event. The pandemic context must not deceive: Geneva is not a temporary fallback, but a long-considered move, with which the watchmaking industry has reacted to the scenographic hypertrophy, the logistical difficulties and the excessive costs of event Basileese. It is true that Geneva 2021 was carried out in digital form, but a few days later it repeated a Shanghai in physical format, and it is not to be doubted that in the coming years we will finally get to see the news of the most prestigious brands in the city that hosts the headquarters of maison same: Geneva, in fact.
To demonstrate how much Patek Philippe wants to mark a strong presence in a year of general economic difficulty, the maison Geneva decides to present in 2021 a reinterpretation of what is perhaps the quintessence of the watch: the Calatrava. The purity and cleanliness of the lines have made the Patek Philippe Calatrava a point of reference in aesthetics as much as the construction care has made it a maximum weight in construction quality. Touch a living legend like the Calatrava it is always a risk. Patek Philippe Was she up to this task? Let's find out by going to learn more about the new references 6119R e 6119G and their predecessors.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe is a company a family run who has never liked to overturn their models. Especially when it comes to absolute classics of watchmaking such as Calatrava.
Il Patek Philippe Calatrava born in the 1932 from the pencil of the British David Penney, which creates an ageless masterpiece, destined to become synonymous with the shape of the watch itself. This timepiece, which draws its stylistic roots from the movement Bauhaus and the name from a medieval knightly order, has been loved by generations of enthusiasts thanks to its lugs that sinuously connect to a perfectly circular case, all to frame a dial with aelegant simplicity, which proves to be the ideal stage for both time-only and Grand Complications.
In 1973, a Calatrava completely different, with straight lugs, cash box "coin" and bezel with processing Clous de Paris. This watch makes geometries the aesthetic vehicle with which to emphasize the refinement of the movement and the case that contains it. This model, initially proposed with a white dial and black lacquered Roman numeral indexes, is also a success.
The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Clous de Paris
The combination of the bezel Clous de Paris it could perhaps have helped, to the designers of the maison Geneva thanks to the illustrations of the inventor of the style of the former Calatrava, David Penney.
As you can see in the images below, it is possible that the intuition to insert a decoration on the bezel comes from the drawings of 1932, where a similar process is shown between ten and one o'clock.
Be that as it may, in Geneva, in 2021, Patek Philippe decides to submit a new in-house hand-wound caliber. To underline and accompany innovation, he proposes a Calatrava revisited also in aesthetics.
It is in fact inserted in the context of the sinuous case Calatrava inspired by the 1932 model, the guilloché bezel Clous de Paris first seen in 1973. All in an overall diameter of 39mm, ideal for a modern evening watch.
Here is this watch, which so strongly embodies the idea of seeds to be called by the name of a medieval knightly order, is revisited without it appearing distorted, indeed. There new Clous de Paris bezel, far from being an upheaval, it represents an additional stylistic possibility in the great world of Patek Philippe Calatrava.
The 30-255 PS movement of the new Patek Philippe Calatrava
Il movement, it was said, it is the strong point of this new one Patek Philippe Calatrava. It is a remarkably innovative caliber: the power reserve has in fact been increased to sixty-five hours, thanks to the double barrel construction. The increase in the power reserve does not only lead to a watch that can run without being touched for a couple of days, allowing the owner to spend a relaxed weekend and put the elegant timepiece back on the wrist on Mondays. L'autonomy of 65 hours allows the caliber 30-255 PS of the new Patek Philippe Calatrava to constantly maintain the ideal charging voltage, thus delivering constant torque and making the watch more accurate. The spring of the barrel, in fact, if tensioned to the maximum, it releases a quantity of energy that differs if loosened and discharged: for this reason, keeping it always in the same charging range makes the work of the balance wheel easier, which will receive constant energy and will be able to run the watch with greater precision: an important factor especially in watches a manual charge, which are not continuously recharged by the movement of the wearer's wrist.
New Patek Philippe Calatrava Guilloché: conclusions
Il new Patek Philippe Calatrava with guilloche bezel to processing Clous de Paris it is available in two versions, both of great elegance. The traditional rose gold case frames and accompanies the classic clear dial of the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3119R-001. The strong slate gray of the dial of the reference 3119G-001 goes well with the white gold of this modern and clean version of the new Calatrava.
Il Patek Philippe Calatrava Clous de Paris it is available in rose gold with a white dial and in white gold with a gray dial. The price of this luxury hand-wound timepiece is € 26.150 in both versions of this hand-wound watch.
Patek Philippe, in renewing its classic Calatrava, carries out an operation destined for certain success. There Guilloché Clou de Paris bezel applied to a Calatrava with sinuous lugs it is certainly an innovation that gives new life to a timeless classic, underlining the improvement of the already excellent manual caliber that has animated this watchmaking classic for decades.
