Chronosect

Dr. N.

The launch of the new ones Rolex it surprised everyone, as usually happens with the maison of the Crown.

Rolex has been able to accustom us to surprises, and it is always very difficult to predict their moves: we tried yesterday. In light of this morning's official revelations, it's time to find out whether we guessed right or not, and above all what they can tell us about the future of Rolex these new models.

Where did we get it

Let's start with the right predictions: The new Submariner has arrived, reference 126610.

As we had ventured, the idea according to which Rolex would have standardized its production lines around the new caliber 3235 was effectively implemented. The 3235 marks a turning point for the Rolex Submariner: this is a movement that the House has already had the opportunity to experiment with in Sea-dweller and in Deepsea. It was reasonable to expect that the application of this new movement would also extend to the workhorse Rolex, Submariner.

What does the 3235 have more than the veteran 3135? There are innovations like the Parachrom spiral blue, made of zirconium and niobium alloy: these materials are insensitive to magnetic fields, which contributes significantly to the running precision of the watch. But not only that, the caliber 3235 Rolex it also features a redesigned, high-efficiency escapement and a power reserve increased to 70 hours, from 48 in the cal. 3135 from which it derives.

Another correct prediction is the one regarding Submariner Hulk, i.e. the 116610 LV with green dial and bezel, which as we predicted, will see its production cease. On the other hand, Rolex presented the 126610LV, already nicknamed by some “New Kermit“, with an allusion to the similar model launched in 2003.

We also guessed the shape of the new case Submariner: if it is true that a new increase in diameter that was not foreseen by us is declared, it is also true that the lugs have been rounded, making them more similar to those of the vintage models. The reason for this double choice is to be found in Rolex's desire to accommodate the public's requests to "reduce" the lugs of the 116610, considered too square and massive, without however re-proposing the case of the 16610 identical to itself: this last requirement is satisfied by the slight increase in diameter, from 40 to 41 mm.

Where we went wrong

The loudest of our denials was certainly the one on Rolex Daytona. The model has not been touched: the steel and gold versions, and the gold ones with gold bracelets, retain the metal bezel.

even the Rolex Milgauss continues, for now, along the path already traced. Who knows, we might not think about it again in the future: the reconstruction that revolved around the possible new Milgauss with rotating bezel was quite interesting.

Where Rolex is going

In addition to Submariner, Rolex presented:

• Il Rolex GMT in steel and rose gold with black dial
• Il Rolex Sky Dweller buy a new bracelet Oysterflex. We take this opportunity to point out that theOysterflex it is a bracelet, not a strap, despite its appearance: in fact it has a metal core that runs inside it to maintain its shape.

• Il Rolex Datejust 31 is being revisited. This is the intermediate model in the range Datejust, located halfway between the Datejust Lady 28 mm and the Datejust men's 36mm: Both of these models had already been reviewed, so it makes sense that Rolex decided to also intervene on the intermediate diameter version.

• The range Rolex Oyster Perpetual sees the arrival of three new models: the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 mm, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 mm and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 mm. These watches combine a touch of novelty with the classic and elegant tradition of Rolex onlytime. Freshness is guaranteed by the range of new, colorful dials, some of which are truly lively.

Our conclusions and a look to the future

So what can we expect from Rolex? Beyond the cliché about innovating in continuity, the choice of maison of the Crown to launch new models in the midst of the worst global economic recession in living memory undoubtedly denotes considerable confidence in the market's resilience. It is perhaps a cynical consideration, but in economic crises wealth tends to concentrate upwards: if this is bad news for the watchmaking sector in general, it is not at all bad for the houses in the luxury sector, which in reality see a ever-increasing demand for their products.

It is therefore to be assumed that Rolex, a company that certainly cannot be defined as imprudent in its commercial choices, aiming to renew its range and in particular a key model like the Submariner, expresses reasonable confidence in the future of the luxury watch market, which still appears, despite any difficulties in other sectors, to be extremely flourishing.

And you, what do you think of the news from Rolex? Let us know your opinion in the comments!

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All images are taken from the official Rolex website