Dr. N.
Many collectors find the Rolex 14060 and 14060 M models of great interest. Why? Because they represent the link between vintage and contemporary Submariners. These series have the advantages of current models - modern high-precision movement, sapphire crystal, improved water resistance - combined with a retro aesthetic - compact case, stamped bracelet, perforated lugs and, in almost all cases, two-line dial , cleaner than the "four lines" -.
Let's see together the characteristics of this watch.
Rolex Submariner without date: the "real" diving watch
Il Rolex Submariner or, as some purists would say, il seeor Rolex Submariner, born without date. On an instrument designed for diving, the date indicator is not really necessary. What the diver needs is that the minute hand is clearly visible in low light conditions, that it clearly indicates the remaining dive time on the rotating bezel, and that there are no distractions on the dial. The first Rolex Submariner responds perfectly to these needs: a black dial with clear hands and indexes, an aluminum bezel - more opaque, therefore free of reflections and glitters, compared to the ceramic one - with large and clearly visible numerals to mark the minutes and a luminescent point on the ring, at twelve o'clock, to facilitate consultation with poor visibility.
The second hand is also made in the ideal way for a diving watch: thin, not bulky, but equipped with a luminous point, very useful not so much to indicate the position of the sphere itself, but to testify even in the dark that the watch it is regularly marching: this is of considerable importance for a diver. In fact, if the clock stops, the failure of the minute sphere to advance with respect to the time marked by the rotating bezel can lead to the misunderstanding of believing that you have more oxygen available than there actually is. The ability to quickly check that the watch is running, thanks to the seconds luminous spot, helps to avoid this risk.
The shape of the balls is also important in diving. The presence of a clearly visible differentiation between the hour hand, in the "Mercedes" shape, and the slender minute hand, allows them not to be confused in conditions of poor visibility. The Rolex Submariner succeeds in the not simple feat of combining functionality and aesthetics, resulting in a timepiece that is as legible and functional under water as it is pleasant in appearance outside.
Perforated handles: why all this hype?
Collectors of Rolex vintage they are uncompromising on the so-called "perforated lugs", considering them a watershed comparable to the transition from plexi glass to sapphire crystal. But what are they, and why are they so important?
The lugs are the part of the case to which the watch bracelet is attached. In the photo below, the side view of a Rolex Submariner 14060 shows us, highlighted in red, the points where the loops are perforated and house the spring handles that connect the bracelet.
The presence of perforated lugs has, in a diving watch, several advantages compared to blind or full lugs - that is, with a through hole - now in use throughout the Rolex range for aesthetic reasons - the lateral surface of a case with blind lugs appears smooth and uninterrupted-, visible in the photo just below, depicting a 16610 Submariner with date, fitted with full handles.
The presence of loops allows first of all an easier detachment of the bracelet from the case, making it possible to remove it without a specialized tool, but simply with an awl fine enough to enter the hole and compress the head of the pneumatic handle until it leaves the bracelet free.
Furthermore, the through hole is easier to clean than a blind hole, an aspect which is not negligible if the watch is used for diving in muddy waters.
An advantage of the perforated lugs that is really concrete and appreciable even by those who do not practice scuba diving is the ease of inserting straps other than the original bracelet. The non-passing or blind lugs obviously allow the use of straps other than the bracelet. Unlike these, the perforated loops however allow the pneumatic ansin to be inserted deeper than what happens with the blind loop. There is therefore a greater hold in the event of side tugs, typical of the leather or fabric strap and not of the bracelet, which by construction always remains perpendicular to the case. Basically, if you wear the watch with a strap other than the original bracelet, a model with passing lugs is preferable to one with blind lugs.
Rolex Submariner 14060: a modern classic
Il Rolex Submariner 14060 it has all the elements appreciated in its predecessors: a highly clean dial thanks to the absence of a date window and a Cyclops lens, a case of less intrusive dimensions than the current one, perforated lugs and a light bracelet in stamped steel. However, it brings important innovations, which make it appreciated by those who want to combine aesthetics Retro to the reliability and serenity of use of a Rolex modern.
Let's see in detail the features of the 14060 series.
In 1990, Rolex presents the Submariner 14060, with anti-scratch sapphire crystal, the winding crown with Triplock technology to improve water resistance, which reaches three meters, and a new movement, the cal. 3000, robust and reliable. From an aesthetic point of view, this Rolex sees the winding crown protected by two shoulders, effective without being massive, and has a dial with two writings in the lower part indicating the name of the model "Submariner" and the maximum depth that can be reached.
The result is aesthetically very well balanced. A clean, legible, elegant dial. A case that rests well on the wrist giving an impression of strength without being intrusive. A light and comfortable bracelet.
In 1999, Rolex introduced the Submariner 14060M, a modernized version with an improved movement, the Cal. 3130, equipped with Breguet hairspring to increase accuracy. Anti-counterfeiting writings are also added to the ring surrounding the dial. The appearance for the rest remains identical to the previous model, until 2007, when the watch was COSC certified without undergoing major modifications: the only change is the addition of the words "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" at six o'clock. which leads the dial to become a so-called "four lines".
Let's sum it up: what to say about the Rolex Submariner 14060?
Il 14060 Submariner it certainly represents a bridge between past and present of Rolex. It is the last Submariner to keep much of the aesthetics of its predecessors intact, while adding the innovations that make the user experience better, such as the sapphire crystal or the modern movement with easily available spare parts.
If you are looking for maximum aesthetic cleanliness and loyalty to the historical stylistic elements of Submariner, the right choice is a 14060.
If you prefer to have the Cal movement on your wrist. 3130 which still ticks the modern Rolex Submariner undated, the 14060 M is for you.
Finally, if you are willing to give up some of the aesthetic cleanliness of the dial in exchange for a movement whose precision is certified by the COSC, the right model is the 14060M "four lettering" produced between 2007 and 2010.
And you, what do you think of Rolex Submariner undated? Do you prefer the vintage ones, the contemporary ones or the “in between” 14060 model? Or do you like the date version more? Tell us in the comments!
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